Process of making shoes.



A. H. PRENZEL. PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES. APPLICATION FILED OCT, 12, 1912 1,117,088, I I Patented N0v.10 .1914

2 SHEETS SHBET 1.

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A. H. PRENZEL. PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

AY'A'LIUALION FILED 001112 1912.

Patented Nov. 10, 1914.

ZSHEBTSSHEET 2 p in connection with the accompanying di'aw- UNITED STATES ra rnn'r oFFIcE.

ADAM H. PRENZEL, F HALIFAX, PENNSYLVANIA. ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF ME JERSEY.

PROCESS OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 10, 1914 Application filed October 12, 1912. Serial No. 725,478.

T all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ADAM H. PnnNzEL, a citizen of the United .St'ates, residing at Halifax, in the county of Dauphin and State of Pennsylvania, have invented'certain Improvements in Processes of Making Shoes, of which the following description,

ings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to processes of I makingshoes and is particularly applicable to the manufacture of shoes in which the sole is attached to an outturned flange of the upper. These shoes, commonly termed stitch-downs, are of two general classes, those in which a continuous flange is formed upon the upper and stitched down upon the sole all the way around, and those in which a portion of the upper is lasted in'over an insole or over a heel seat piece while the remaining portion is turned out and stitched down in the usual manner.

A common objection to the first type of stitch-down shoe is the appearance of the heel end of this shoe.

1 for turning out the upper and stitching it down upon the sole at the heel end of this type of shoe, the heel must be considerably larger than the ordinary heel upon a shoe of the same size and must necessarily, therefore, be considerably heavier. In making the second type of stitch-down shoe difliculty has been experienced in making a neat joint where the out-turned and inturncd portions of the upper meet and, when the upper has been lasted in only at the heel seat, difiiculty has also been experienced in conforming the upper to the last in the region of the shank. This latter difliculty has been expe-.

rienced up to the present time in making all types of stitchdown shoes.

An object of the present invention is to produce a stitch-down shoe which in every way will present as neat an appearance as a shoe of any other type.

To this end the invention aims to produce a stitch-down shoe in which the upper shall be lasted in only at the heel seat and shall be turned out and stitched down upon the sole through the shank and about the fore part, which shall have a tight and neat appearing joint where the outturned and in turned portions of the upper meet, whi h In order to provide shall be properly conformed to the last in the shank and shall be so constructed as to keep its original neat appearance after long wear, and which can be manufactured with. a minimum of labor and expense.

Other objects and novel features of the invention will appear from the following description and claims when. considered in connection with the accompanying draw ings, in WhlCh,-

Figure l is a perspective view showing the novel last and the novel insole employed in carrying out the process of this invefition; Fig. 2 illustrates the outsole employed when the shoe is either a no-heel shoe or a shoe having an outside heel built up of lifts; Fig. 3 shows the formation of the outsole for a spring heel shoe; Fig. 4 shows the arrangement of the upper and lining and the contour of the lining at the toe end of til.

shoe; Fig. 5 illustrates the shoe after the lining has been turned in and cemented down upon the insole and after the heelleni of the upper and counter have been turned through the shank and forepart region and the location of the welt abutting lift with respect to the outturned portion of the upper; .Fig. 7 is a detail section showing the role tive locations of the different parts of the.

completed shoe while it is still upon the last; [*iig. 8 is a side elevation of a completed 8106.

An important feature of the invention is the forcimg of the angle'of the upper beneath the edge of the insole-during the lasting operation whereby theinner' edge of the welt may also be brought beneath the edge of the insole or in the crease of the upper, thereby improving the appearance of the shoe and providing a firm support for the upper upon the inside of the shoe so that it does not draw back from the welt, as in the ordinary stitch-down shoe. -To' facilitate ohtaining this result from the lasting operation, the last 2 employed in this process is preferably beveled along the bottom edge, as shown at 4, in Figs. 1 and 7, and a bevel 6 is preferably also provided uponthe insole 5. It will be understood, however, that in some cases one of these bc-vels majyb dispensed with, particularly when the insole comparatively thin. The outer edge of the showuin Fig,

' an outsole 17 is placed noted that the 5 ace of the sole margin which will not ex- ,tend around the heel end of insole, when. it been placed upon the last, is preferably sun 2 ntiaily flush with the Side of the last and he insole is temporarily u'ed upon the lastin this 703ll3i0i1 by any suit is fastening means suc as stay tacks 8 shown in Fig. 1.

After the insole has been placed upon the last, an upper 10 having a lining 12 is placed upon the last, the lining 12 of the up per preferably projecting beyond the edge of the uppcr-inorder to provide for a considerable margin to be turned in and co mooted down upon the, insole. About the toe end the. lining-is preferably notched, as shown at 14, eo that when it is turned in over theed-ge of. the insole it may be ce merited down smoothly upon the insole-[as The upper and insole having been placed upon the last, the lining is drawn tight over the edge of the insole and cemented down upon the insole all the way around. A convenient mode of effecting this cementing operation is to prepare a number. of insoles by spreading glue over the bottom face, preferably over the Whole of the bottom face, and then allowing the glue todry upbn the insoles until they are ready fonuse. When the operation of lasting in the lining over the insole is to be performed, the insole may then be passed over a jet of steam. to soften up the glue, after which the cementing operation can easily be performed by simply ressing the lining into the glue upontlie lief-tom face of the insole. .The lining having been turnedin and cemented down upon the bottom faceof the insole, the heel end 15 of the upper and the counter 16 are turned in and lasted down upon the insole, preferably by-means of lasting tacks in the usual manher, After the heel seat has been lasted in,

on the last and the lower margin of the forepart and shank of the upper is then turned-out and lasted a own upon this outsole. "In order to permit the upper to he turned in at the heel and and lasted down upon the; insole and turned out in from of the heel and lasted down upon the outsole, the upper is preferably cut in from the edge upon each side, as shown at 18 and 20, to the line where the flange is to be turned out. I I

. From an inspection of Fig. 6 it will'be erwill'forma thickness upon the upper the sole. Moreover when the welt has been laid upon this outturned flange and the other thickness of material will appear upon the sole margin through the shank and about the forepart which will not appear upon the heel end of the sole. The thickness of the edge of the sole will, therefore,

coating of glue which is outturned flange of the upv parts have been united by stitches in the usual manner, an-

appear to be much greater through the shank and about the forepart than at the heel end. Moreover the appearance of the joint where the inturned and outturned portions of the upper meet will bevery unsatisfactory because of the abrupt termination of the well at this point. I of the joint at this point, and at the same time to provide a better joint at this point, the outsole is preferably provided upon the upper face of its heel end with a raised welt abuttin portion which may be in the form of a li t 22 of such a thickness upon its outer edge that the exposed upper face of this lift will lie substantially flush with the upper face of the welt. In Fig. 2 is shown an outsole provided with such a lift upon the'upper face of its heel end, this outsole To improve the appearance being adapted especially for use either with a shoe having no heel or with a shoe having a heel built up on the outside or bottom face of the outsole.

When the invention is to loo-practised in the manufacture of spring heel shoes, the outsole is preferably built up,'as shown in Fig. 3, the underwedge or spring lift 24 being inserted between the welt abutting lift 22 and the upper face of the heel end of the sole, and the sole being then pressed down or sprung, as shown at 26, so thatthe front edge of the outer margin of the welt abutting lift 22 will project above the shank portion of the sole sufficiently to cause the exposed edge of this lift to lie substantially flush with the upper face of the Welt in the finished shoe. I I

, In preparing the outsole for the lasting step, the welt abutting lift 22 is preferably cemented upon the upper face of the heel end of the outsole and is then pressed firmly in position the e'enterof this lift being preferably depressed, as shown in Fig. 2, to bring its upper surface near the upper surface of the remainin portion of the outsole. The outsole is prdlerably also prepared for the lasting operation'in a nanner-similar to the preparation ofthe insole hereinabove described, that is, the outsoleis preferably provided over its whole upper face with a allowed to dry upon the outsole until the outsole is ready for use; When the -outsole is to be used, its coating of glue is exposed to a jet of steam and softened andthe' outsole is then located carefully upon the last'w-ith the forward edge of the welt abutting lift 22 abutting against therear edges of the outturned flange 30"of the' upper, the outsole: being pressed down so that it adheres to the insole and to the inturned lining. .The lower margin of the upper along the shank and about the forepart is then-"turned out and the upper is drawn tightly'overthe last and secured in lasted position, preferably by staples 32 inserted in the angle of the upwelt and the upper and also iiism'ing pruper er close in the 3.16%: m 13w MW. mg ope'rzitinn may CGIXVQDWIILEL' furmed upml a lfi'j fibifi'. (A? f closed in my era-pending appiimziu N0. 725,47? filed (3d 12 19115,

1 Inasmuch the edge the i! M. beveled, as slwwn an and. in trated shoe, the edge of ihe 1v been bewimi, as sir-Mn m i lasting operation tiw migie 1 may be forcad in. between w. sole and the outsole, thus i." v. crease in she ugiper into whic edge of the beveled we]; may be HAYES-21. thereby forming a tight joint ,etwran the support for the upper upon the inside at the'shoe. I It will be noted from an inspection at Fig. 7 that the staples 3O ar driven into ihe angle 31 0f the upper at such an iilCiiiliBiQD. to the fare of the sole that the of ihes staples extend beneath the edge of the isst and beneath the edge of the insfliu, The Staple; are thus inserted in direciiuns sub stantially transverse to the dirwton of gm of the stretched up er and in such (2' Lions that when the saris of the smpies coveredby tha- Wait. shown 2:: there is substantially nu upputiuu v file staples to work 10059. The nwm brai cemented Emily down upon 1hr within the bounds of its hex-" i. r is prmiuce-(i iu whirh the u su ported in. its iusxui cwmiizim Wlii keep 51$ shape afier rise last and ex'en aria-v: mug wear abm'e, thr wcl 1-1- is prv'faraify hen, that it winner upmi its mn sr efigzis rjz. upon its outer edge. An important raw-m1 for beveling this Weir, in addition in that of permitting it to be thrust easily beneath the overhanging 9:17; of the upper into fl'm crease or angic 5i! fnrmmi'bei'wwn the er and tin? mflrurnmi Hanan" ilit 7 0F (HVGITUQ YM- 0min align 0i flange in wider iiinai it nmf; mm in M xer 5 to mrericx l 0pm; upon rim 05% v3 2 I: 0179] a H; ably HUI soi s as sin i I ()xill 1 '12? wig-z ni ix cu-3* pimr fan: wf 2h;- a fight jOiJPL aim: the finishing; open v, piuced upun Um xzgq w' if 11 9 Wit exposure; 35 3i? 9km? 11m. 251mm is c (WM; that the im'Pniiv-n stiichm? Mg he ends m weirmy? lawn :im ms? m5 murmur} pm heel raw} (if tin? suiv is a'timlhgi m the ii; i; up 'wrgmd munuwx p *es'abiy by nziziisuiriam through thew purl; uni Piencimi 11pm: PM insidi (if the bue in the usuai nmmmz These nails are preierabiy so iucmed thus the edge 0f the, has! and of the soie and the edge uf the lift 22 may be trimmed 010% in the. side. of the upper .in the 's'mumer usua in the making of he better grades of ghfiev. If an outside nevi "is ampl0yed,such as aimwn in Fig. 8. the nails arr: preferably insertsc thzm' gh thus heei;aiso. When nailing; Cue parts. together, cars is taken in have i'iw pans securely 213.5106 mar the junction =5 thu mt/turtle! :m iflhxrned parts {31 tiw 12%. am an that a high: joiili may be seeuraci M ihispaint,

5111 up we;

a mi SL088 1TH Gm miyem in-e :uui ihgtthe Cir-mam umier cf Hm app-{ 3" abmii the fnrwart and par wiii he under:-ri;n0 1, howzan in: practised and pnssibi in some fiai' kri {in butier advantage. if the tan: part 0% thu uppvr tngefher with flu? tue stiffener "1;? are muldo'ti Enm su 'ii v i shape beim'e UH? uppm Kile r m-(#195011 cnuimnpiates of m we.

also molding the counter and the heel end of the up )(31' into substantially their final shapes be ore the lasting operation upon these parts.

It will be understood that some of the novel steps of the invention may be practia'col without the use of all of the parts here in shown; for example, a complete insole is not necessary in order-to obtain many of" tom edge o i the la-t with the bodies of the l staples parallel to said edge has been made the subject-matter of my co-pending applicati n Serial No. 725.476 tiled Oct. 12, 1912, and all claims to this subject-matter which are broad enough to read upon the disclosure in the present application as well as upon the disclosure in said co-pending application will he made in said (o-pending application.

'lhe no el shoe produced by the process hereinabove described is not herein claimed but is made the subject matter of my copen ing application. Serial No. 863,129, tiled deptl niber 1914, the said co-pending application being a division of this application.

l'laving des-"i'ibed my invention, what I ciaim as new and desire to sequre'by Letters Patent of the United States 1s:-

1. That improvement in the art of making shoes whi h consists in assembling .upon a last an upper and an insole, applying an mus le and providing a space between the edge of the insole and the outsolgturning ut tl'nlowl-r margin of the upper, progres haping thiupper to the last and oring the angle of the upper into said .-pa-- lit'liVttn the edge of the insole and the aw lc. permanently securing the upper to the r utsohin said angle as the shaping procre ses. laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper. and uniting the welt,

upper and outsohx 2. That iinprmement in the art of making shoes which on ists in assembling upon a last an upper and an insole which has its edge substantially flu h with the edge of the last, securing to the bottom face of said insole an outsole which has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last and providing a space between the edge (ffSfllfl insole and said outsole, turning out the,

lower margin of the upper, progress l vely shaping the upper to the last and forcing the angle of the upper into the space between the insole and the outsole, permaneatly securing the upper to the outsole in said angle as the shaping progresses, laying a Welt upon the outturned margin of the uriper, and uniting the welt, upper and outso e.

3. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an lupper and an insole which has its edge substantially flush with the ed e of the last, securing to the bottom face 0 said insole an outsole which has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last and providing a space between the edge of said insole and said outsole, turning out the lower margin of the upper, progressively shaping the upper to the last and forcing the angle of the upper into the space between the insole and the outsole, permaneatly securing said upper to the outSole, as the shaping progresses, by staples insertcd in said angle with the bodies of the staples parallel to the bottom edge of the last. laying a welt upon the out-turned upper margin, and uniting the welt, upper and outsole.

4. That improvement'in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and lining and an insole which has its edge substantially flush with the edge ofthe last, turning in the lining and securing it to the bottom face of the insole, applying an outsole which has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last and providing a space between the edge of the nsole and the outsole, turning out the lower margin of the upper, progressively shaping the upper to the last and forcing the angle of the upper into the space bet (1H1 the insole and outsole, pernianently securing the upper to the outsole in said angle as the shaping progresses, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper, and uniting the welt, upper and outsolc.

That improvement in the art of making shoes whi h consists in assembling upon a last an upper and lining and an insole which has its edge substantially flush with the edge. of the'last, turning the lining in and securing it to the bottom face of the insole, ap' plying an outsole which has a margin projecting beyond the bottom edge of the last and providing a space between the edge of the insole and the ,outsole, turning out the lower margin of the upper, progressively shaping the upper .to the last and forcing the angle of the upper into said space between the insol and the outsole, permanentl v se uring the upper to the outsole, as the shaping progresses. by staples inserted in said angle with the bodies of the staples parallel to the bottom edge of the last and the legs inclined to the face of the outsole, trimming the upper margin back from the edge of the sole, laying upon said upper mar 11 a well; which is thicker at its outer go than at its inner edge whereby its outer edge overhangs the edge of then par and its inner edge enters the angle of the upper and covers the. heads of the staples, and unitin the welt, upper and outsole.

6. T lat improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last,an insole, an upper and a lining which projects beyond the bottom edge of the upper, turning the liningin and securing it to the bottom of the insole, applying an outsole to the bottomof the shoe, turning the upper out, progressively. shaping the upper to the last and forcing the angle of the upper between the insole andthe outsole, permanently securin the upper to the outsole in said angle as t e shaping progresses laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper and uniting the welt, upper and outsole.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last beveled along the bottom edge an insole and an per and lining, turning the lining in and c ienting it down upon the insole all the way around, turning the heel end of the upper in and lastim it down upon the heel end of the insole, pdacing upon the bottom of the shoe an outsole having at its heel end a raised welt abutting portion, turning out the upper through the shank and forepart,

I forcing the angle of the upper beneath the edge of the insole and beneath the overhanging beveled edge of the last, inserting staples in said-angle of the upper through the upper into the outsole, laying a welt upon said outturned portion of the upper, and

" uniting the welt, upper and outsole with stitches.

8. That improvement in the art of making shoes which. consists in assembling upon a last beveled along its bottom edge an insole and an upper and lining, turning in the lm" ing and securing it to the insole, thus shaping the insole to the bottom of the last, placing an outsole upon'the shoe, turning out the lower margin of the upper, progressively shaping the upper to the last and forcing the angle of the upper beneath the edge of the insole and under the overhanging beveled portion of the last, ermanently securing the upper to the outso e, as the shaping progresses, b staples inserted in said angle through t e upper into the outsole, placing a welt ;upon the outturned margin of the upper with the edge of the welt in the crease between the insole and outsole and uniting the welt, upper and outsole with stitches.

9. That lmprovementin the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last beveled along thcbottom edge an insole and an upper and lining, turning the lining in and securing it to the bottom of the insole. thus shaping the insole, to he bottom of the last, applying an outsole, turning the upper out, progressively shapingthe upper ing shoes whic angle as the shaping progresses, placing a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper and uniting the welt, upper and outsole.

10. That improvement in the art of male ing shoes which consists in assembling upon a last beveled along the bottom edge an insole and an upper, applying an outsole, turning the upper out and forcing the angle of the upper between the insole and outsole, securing the upper to the outsole in said angle, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper and uniting the welt, upper and outsole. V

11. That improvement in the art of malt ing shoes which consists in assembling upci. alast beveled along the bottom edge an insole and an upper and lining, turning the lining in and securing it to the bottom face of the insole, thus shaping the insole to the bottom of the last applying an outsole, turn ing the lower margin of the upper out, progressively shaping the upper to the last forc ing the angle of the upper beneath the insole and the outsole beneath the beveled edge of the last, permanently securing the upper to'the outsole, as the shaping progresses, by staples inserted in said angle, laying a welt upon the upper margin in such manner that the inner edge of the welt projects into said ,angle and covers the heads of the staples,

and uniting the welt, upper and outsole.

12. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in providing an outsole at its heel end with a raised welt abutting portion, securing the welt to the "upper and to the outsole, and abutting said against the exposed abutting edges of said lift.

14. That im rovement in the art of makconsists in assembling upon a last an upper and aninsole, lasting the heel end of the upper in and turning the forepart of the upper out, providing upon the upper face of an outsole a raised abutting portion against which the ends flftl e outturned portion of the upper abut, attaching the outturned margin of the upper to said outsole, and attaching said outsole -t0 the insole at its heel end.

15. That improvement in the art of makingshoes which consists in assembling upon a last an insole and an u'pper and lining, turning in the lining and securihg it to the insole all way around, turning in the heel end of the up er and lasting it dowh uponthe insole, pliicing' upon the shoe an outsole having u on the upper surface of its heel-end a raised welt abutting portion, turning out the'upper through the shank and about the forepart, laying a well; upon said outturned portion of the upper, uniting the wfllt upper and outsole with stitches and a bluttin the welt at both ends against the raised ah utting-portion of the outsole.

16. That irn rovementrin the art-of makin shoes whic consists 'in assembling upon a ast an u per andain insole over which the heel end 0 theup er may be lasted in, turning in the heel en of the upper and lasting it downupon said insole, turning out the lower margin of the forepart, applying an outsole having secured to its'up er face a raised welt a utting part exten ing, when said outsole is locatedon the last, substantially to the forward edge of the lasted-in portion of the upper, laying a welt upon the outturned margin of the upper, uniting the welt, upper and outsole and abutting the ends of the welt against said abutting part. 17. That improvement in the art of male ing shoes which consists-in assembling upon a last an upper and an insdle which has its edge substantially flush withthe bottom edge of the last, turning in the heel end of the upper and lasting it down upon said insole, applying an outsole' which has a marin projecting beyond the bottom edge of he last and which is provided upon the upper side of its heel end with a raised abuttin portion extending substantially to the end of the turned-in portion" of the upper, providing a space between the edge of the insole and the outsole, turning out the upper through the shank and forepart, forcing the angle of the upperinto said'space between the insole and outsole, securingthe upper to the outsole in said angle, laying a welt upon the outturnedmargin of the up per, abutting the ends of the .welt against said raised abuttin portion of the outsole, and uniting the we t,upper and outsole.

18. That improvement in'the art of making shoes which consists in assembling upon a last an upper and lining and anflinsole, turning in t e lining all the way around and securing it to the bottom face of the insole, lasting in the heel end of the upper u on the insole, securing to the upper face 0 an outsole a. lift hevingra margin-oi substah 'tially the thickness of the upper. and welt of the shoe, deprein that part of the lift which comes beneath the upper and the insole, applying said outsole to the inst and cementing the outsole to the insole and lining, turning out the lower edge of the up perf-tltrough the Sdflilll and aboutthe forepart; laying a wait upon said outturn'ed margin'of the upper, uniting the-welt, up per and outsole, and abutting the ends of the welt and ends of the outturned mergin of the up an against the exposed POP, tion of said li t.

That improvente in the art of male ingshoes which eon. n sssemblingupon a last an upper and as pie over which the heel and of the upper turning in the heel and of the. upper and lasting it down uponrsaid insole, turning out the lower margin of the forepart, applying an outsole having secured to its upper face a raised welt abutting part, extending when said entsole is located on the last substantially the I'm-ward edge of the lasted-in portion of the upper, iayinga welt upon the outturned margin of the up er. uniting the welt, upper and outsole, a uttin the ends of the welt against said abutting part, and uniting the outsole, the abutt-in part and the insole. 1

2 That improvement in the art of maka last an upper and an insole applymg an oute'ole which has a margin pro ecting beyoni'l the edge of the insole and providing a space near the edge of the insole between the lower face of the insole and the upper face of the outsole, tllliilllglOllt the lower margin of the upper, progressively shaping the npperto the last and forcing the angle of the upper into the space between the 1nsole and the outsole, permanently seenring the upper to the.outsole in said angle, as the shapingprogresses, laying a welt upon the outturued margin of the upper, anduniting the welt, uppett and outsole.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

ADAM H. PRE'NZEL.

Witnesses C. F. STILL, L. Vt, RYAN.

may be lasted in,: 

